Chassis Build

		NG TF Kit Car Build
		by Peter Bambrook



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Chassis Build
		Front Suspension & Steering
		The front crossmember is held on with just 4 bolts, torqued up to the Haynes manual setting, which is quite high. The various components were then assembled onto the crossmember and the original hubs were refitted for the temporary steel wheels.The front springs were a little awkward as my compressors were a little large for the springs. The front wishbones were drilled and tapped to accept the front stainless steel covers. These are an SVA requirement. I also exchanged the steering rack for a reconditioned one from the MGB Hive as there was quite a bit of work on my original. Other than that there were no major headaches in this section.
		Rear Suspension
		As the rear springs were off a B-GT they were a little firm so after discussions with Nigel Brooks at Findhorn Cars I removed a section of spring. They were re-assembled, stripped and painted and then had the new bushes pressed in. They were then bolted to the chassis with no problems. The axle was then assembled on the springs with a new fitting kit and U-bolts. By weighing down the rear of the chassis I attached the check straps and the panhard rod. It was easier at this stage to attach the rear brake line to the axle and the 3 way union. The brake components were attached using new springs, shoes and drums. The handbrake cable was also attached to the differential compensator and the new levers, although the handle will have to wait until the body arrives.
		Engine & Gearbox
		The clutch was attached to the flywheel with no problems. The standard clutch alignment tool from Moss did the job although I did have to wrap a little insulation tape around to get a more snug fit in the crankshaft bush. I attached the gearbox to the engine on the floor with just a little jiggling, and the bolts were torqued up. The next stage was to hire a hoist to install the engine. I hired it for the day expecting the usual alignment problems that were mentioned in the build manual. Luckily, with the front engine mount loosely fastened to the chassis, the gearbox mount holes lined up with the chassis perfectly and were bolted up. The front mounts were then tightened and the job was finished, in one hour. The driveshaft was fitted to the overdrive and the differential and the job was complete. The stage was the ancillaries: Alternator. I stripped this down completely and cleaned it with a wire brush and electric drill .I replaced the spindle bushes and re-assembled the parts. I took it to a local electrician for testing and he confirmed that it was providing a good voltage. Starter Motor. I also stripped this down and cleaned the components. The retaining washers were missing and the rear spindle had been drilled and a split pin inserted. I left these out as at the time seemed unimportant. (Later this caused problems turning over the engine so I re-fitted a new split pin which solved the problem.) I bought a new Lucas 45D alternator as opposed to the 25 unit that was fitted. This meant that timing would be slightly different later. A also treated myself to an alloy rocker cover. This makes the unit look very smart although the chrome on the fixing bolts has already lifted. These will be replaced by a set of brass MG Logo ones from Moss. I bought a reconditioned manifold from Ebay and the inlet manifold was bead blasted. I bought a new water pump and a new thermostat housing due to the different direction required for the radiator. I also bought a different oil filter housing. This one allows a smart stainless oil pipe to feel oil from the block directly to the filter rather than through an oil pump. I think it was from a marina version of this engine.
		Fuel System
		I opted for a bespoke stainless steel fuel tank from Findhorn Cars. Unfortunately the one delivered was the pattern model used for the fabricators, however although a little untidy it was serviceable. I struck a deal with Findhorn and kept and cleaned up the tank. I also decided to have it powder coated for added protection and was very pleased with the results.The tank can only be finally mounted when the body is fitted as the mounting straps attached to the same bolts on the rear crossmember. I ran the cable through the chassis holes to the engine area. This was difficult to get the bends without kinking the pipe. I messed up one completely and had to buy a new roll. The chassis holes were lined with some rubber hose for protection. The fuel pump from the donor car was not standard equipment and was of unknown origin so rather than attempt to recondition it I bought a new SU electric fuel pump. I used the standard MGB pump bracket and grommet and drilled suitable holes into the sloping chassis crosspiece to mount the pump. Care was taken to ensure that the braided stainless hose from the pump to the tank didn't get fouled by the movement of the axle.